Science Articles on Photography : 14 Tips For Improving Your Landscape Photos (Part 2)

Science Articles on Photography : 14 Tips For Improving Your Landscape Photos

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8. Working Closely with Nature or the Weather

A scene can be quickly changed. Therefore, to determine when the best time to photograph is very important. Sometimes the best opportunity to get the scene just when the weather is not sunny blue sky, but just when it will rain or storm or after a rain or storm, where the sky and the clouds will be very dramatic.

In addition to patience in the “waiting” moments, in the setting of equipment readiness and foresight in the search for objects such as clouds and Focal Point, ROL (ray of light), rainbows, fog, etc..

9. Golden Hours & Blue Hour

In the normal color landscape photography, as is usually the best time around (before) sunset (sunset) or after sunrise (sunrise).

Golden hour is the time, usually 1-2 hours before sunset (sunset) until 30 minutes before sunset, and 1-3 hours after sunrise, where the “golden light” or sunlight will make the golden color of the object.

In addition, during the golden hours will also create a shadow on oject, be it a tree, or person to be lengthy and could be leading lines such as who is mentioned in # 6 above.
If we take pictures during the golden hour has passed, or when the sun was blazing, usually the result will be flat or harsh lighting, its because the sun was well above.
This berlawananan with IR landscape photography who do not know the golden hours, where the best time just when the heat of the sun.

Blue Hours are some of the time, usually up to 20-30 minutes after sunset (sunset), where the sun was tebenam, but the sky was not dark black. At this time the sky is blue.

So it is not quite right, that at the time the sun had set and the sky was getting dark (our eyes), we directly pack the gear / tripod ours. Precisely that’s when we can get a great scene where the sky is blue and not black. Usually with a long exposure, cloud (though if we see with the naked eye is not visible) will still be clearly visible and gives texture to the blue sky.


Before Sunset

Golden Hours

Blue Hours

10. Check the Horizon

Although now handily these errors can be corrected with image editor, but I still believe “get it right the first time” will be optimized.

There are two last things before we press the shutter:
a. Does it have a straight horizon, there are several ways to get the horizon straight when the execution on the field, see # 12.

Is the horizon has the right composition out well, see # 5 for the application of Rule of third. Regulation / rule is sometimes made ​​to dilangar, but if the scene that we will create is not strong enough (strong) elementnya, usually Rule of the Third will help make a better composition. Indeed, with croping later in image processing software, we can fix it. But if not with forced, is better at the time of execution we’ve put the horizon at the position should.

Examples of the photo below is one of the photos I took on the safe side (save) to the position of the horizon at the time of execution. By Because I put it right in the middle horizon of course, with expectations at the time, I could do the cropping later (in both the crop the top or bottom).

11. Change Your : Viewpoint / Angle / View

Sometimes we are stuck with the perspective or angle that we generally do, or maybe when we visit a place that we often see a picture either in magazines or websites like the V&A, we become “talkative” and taking pictures with the same angle.

Many ways to get a fresh point of view. Not always “eye-level angle” (the normal position as we stand) in the photograph was the best. Try with high-angle (camera raised above the head), waist-level angle, low-level, etc., try different formats of horizontal and / or vertically.

Or trying to find a spot or a different stand point or a different place, for example from the top of the tree (there is a senior photographer I know who likes to climb trees to get a different view, and the results are different and unique), or trying to stand up to edge of the abyss, or even lie on the ground … of course with more priority to your own safety as a major factor and calculate the risks that may be obtained.

One thing that must be understood, tried with different viewpoints do not always automatically the image we will be better or better, but so once you get better, is guaranteed to be different from the others.

With often experimenting with different angles, over time you will instinctively trained while in the field to get not only a good angle, but also different.
Do not take pictures over and over again at one point / spot. Try to shift a few feet laterally or forward, or even walk away.
Also occasionally try to turn round to look, can sometimes get an interesting and different angle.
3-5 exposures / shots at one point and “move on, change spots, change orientation (landscape <-> portrait), look back, change lenses.”

Especially if you frequently travel, be it to a place that is public or to a place that rarely visit the photographer. There are times when we are in a spot where the pictures from that location was the site of “million people” where hundreds or even thousands of photographers have photographed in the same spot and produce images that are similar or disparate thin.
Use the photographs that you often see it as a reference, study and apply the technique and try to find something different. Make a difference.

If you do not mind sleeping on the pavement for a moment :

If you do not mind who lie for a moment under the camel camel around it filled with dirt :

If you do not mind walking for a moment looking for spots along the river which is the local public toilets :

If you do not mind risking life for a moment with a tripod stand and install without the harness on the steep sloping cliffs with no safety fence with Pacific ocean about 200 meters below :

If you do not mind warm (50 degrees Celcius) throughout the day in the middle of the Thar desert (India-Pakistan) :

12. Using Auxiliary Equipment

The use of some auxiliary equipment below will be helpful to get a better landscape photos.

  • CPL filter: to better concentrate / color saturation, concentrating on a sky blue color, eliminating reflection, and so on.

  • ND filter: To reduce exposure, to get a slow exposure speed. Of ND2, ND4, ND8. To ND1000 ND400
  • Graduated ND filters: To balance the exposure between the top and bottom, for example, between sky and land. Of ND 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.6 to 1.2

There are two types of ND Graduated: Soft & Hard Edge Edge :

  • Graduated color filters, such as graduated Sunset, Tobacco Graduated, Graduated Blue Fluorescent, etc., with various concentrations and types (similar to normal with Graduated ND)
  • Bubble level: To get the horizon level / flat perfect. Can also use a grid on the viewfinder or use a focusing screen that has a grid.

Indeed, with the easy use of increasingly sophisticated software and features image processing software to repair / correction of errors during execution that can cope with exposure error or tilt the horizon, the use of the equipment mentioned above sometimes feels less necessary, but generally “get it right the first time” will can produce better pictures and natural, than if the photo must faces made all-out later just so I can look “good”.

If you have done everything properly, it would be wide open again with the possibility to process more perfect future.

Sample images use ND grad

In the left photo, use ND Grad 0.9 Hard-edge with the position of the light dark boundary is almost level / flat, while the right photo, soft-edge ND denganGrad 0.6, but the laying of bright dark boundary is tilted (titled) in accordance batas2 cliff.

13. The Lenses are used

Sometimes there is often the assumption that a photograph of a landscape that must use the lenses as wide as possible. But in making a photograph of a landscape, all lenses can be used, from super wide lenses (14mm, 16mm, etc.), wide (20mm – 35m), medium (50mm – 85mm), up to a telephoto / super telephoto (100mm – 600mm). All range and the lens can be used.

It all depends on your needs and scenes that we face. Wide lens / super wide sometimes needed if we want to encapsulate a broad scene with objects that include a lot or a remote or want to get a unique perspective. However, sometimes a telephoto can be used to isolate the scene so it is more un-cluttered, simple and focus.
When arriving at a location / spot, try try with all the lenses that you are carrying. Do not become fixated on one lens and photographed repeatedly.

Sometimes it takes foresight, to see and find a unique shape or pattern of the extent of a landscape scene, so that we can to isolation by using the right lens. Only by frequent shooting and face a variety of scenes in a variety of conditions that can hone your instincts, be it an object what to look for or what the lens should be used.

The use of the lens is not standard, such as fish-eye (either the diagonal or full-circular) could also get an interesting view, certainly with the use at the right time. Not always use fish-eye image generating “good” is different though.

Examples of landscape photo with a 200mm lens :

Examples of landscape photo with a 300mm lens :

Examples of the use of fish-eye lens :

14. Prepare Yourself and Adjust Equipment

While this is not directly related, but sometimes crucial. Often we need a research or ask first left-right, be it with googling or ask with a photographer who had been there earlier to one location, especially if visiting a place vastly different climate and weather, Because it will determine the readiness of our physical as well as equipment should be taken, be it photography equipment and supporting equipment.

Double-check and test all cameras and lenses that will be taken.
It would be better if all perlataan to be carried in a clean state, be it the lens, filters and the camera (sensor) it.

Bringing all the lenses that we have sometimes unwisely. Maybe a trip only takes one or two lenses only, or even need more than that, because we already have a picture or information or the trip is a repeat trip who had never been done.

Knowing the nature and the environment and customs (if there is a population) of location shooting will also be very helpful.
Even sometimes with the map (or maybe GPS) will help us find a place or spot, especially when we are hunting in areas that do not know, or location that we are not memorized.

Another thing that is important is protect the equipment that you carry during photo trips / hunting, whether it’s just day-trips, overnight trips or trips for days or even weeks.
Before leaving, make sure you have the check-list reply perlaatan whatever you are carrying. Also take note of all the model and serial number.

Tips to protect the equipment / gear you have:

  • Keep your camera equipment in his bag when not in use. Buy and use the padlock / padlock with a quality good enough to lock it.
  • If you stay diasuatu hotel / motel / hostel, do not leave your tools lying on a table or in bed if you leave the room, though only briefly, eg to exit a meal. Enter back into the bag and lock it.
  • If you are staying at a cottage (usually coastal areas) or a hotel with a room downstairs, with windows that can open, do not put your purse near a window, either when leaving the room or while you sleep. Bags can be easily “hook / fishing rod” from the outside.
  • For other equipment such as laptops, use a laptop, such as laptop security cable (Notebook lock) made by Kensington, MicroSaver type, which can be tied / looped into an object of fixed / fixed like a wooden table, or a metal pole.
  • My experience in third world countries (not Indonesia), it is not wise to bring your camera to take pictures of the backpack. Usually what I do is I use a camera bag just for my equipment transport media, eg, from one town / place to another. For hunting I use a smaller camera bag or a camera holder as toploader / Topload. Sometimes prone area, the camera backpack your back just advertise and invite the bad guys.
  • If you’re forced to leave all or part of your equipment in a backpack bag, either dikamar hotel or car, but locked the lock / padlock, use a metal safety net as a very strong Pacsafe backpack protects your overall work with the same principle as a protective laptop that is by linked / fixed objects that wrap a little market like an iron pole, car seats, wooden bed or table.
  • It is important to know information about the circumstances surrounding a point of interest from local people, both about how to get there, or the local security situation to be avoided, for example, from the receptionist, concierge / doorman, etc.. Frequently asked, so that multiple source is more useful than a single source.
  • Do not be lazy, lazy, to often do check-count/list over all the equipment carried, for example, every night before bed, while cleaning equipment / lenses. So if there is one missing item can be caught early … instead of at the end of the trip after arriving home or leaving the place.

Note :

_ All the photographs used as examples are the photographs themselves, except for comparison CPL photo illustrations, tables & type Grad ND # 12 and # 14 on pacsafe photos
_ All the photographs on display in this document are the property of Intellectual Property (IP) copyright of Yadi Yasin, is prohibited to copy or move into form or format or any medium without the express written consent (written consent) of Yadi Yasin.
_ All of the photos displayed without burning, dodging, layering, without any reduction or addition of elements of other pictures or other manipulation, in addition to just adjust contrast, saturation / tone / curve or change the bw / sepia.
_ “14 Tips For Improving Your Landscape Photos” This work may be distributed, provided that no change / modification of any kind, either in pictures or writing / text.



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